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TOTM: Safety

I was curious if any jeepspeed drivers are wearing a neck support device like a Hans, foam neckroll, or the leatt motoR for autosports. I know in motorcycle racing I personally wear a leatt Gpx neck brace for neck support but also I'm not in a rollcage or 5 point harness. Just been curious
 
I am planning on running a full face helmet, hopefully with an air system, and a foam neckroll. I would like to know what the requirements are as far as the JeepSpeed regulations though if someone knows the code off the top of thier head.
 
Perfect timing! I was planning on posting a thread asking for recommendations. 'Looking at upgrading to HANS/D-CEL/ or similar soon. Any recommendations? Those who have used them: What are your likes/dislikes? How about ease of access/movement inside the vehicle while wearing the various systems?

BITD requires at least a foam helmet pad/neck roll(most everybody does), but I'm not sure that's adequate. 'Saw the aftermath of a buggy wreck. Driver wearing a D-CEL, co-dog wearing a foam pad. Driver walked away, Co-dog went out on a back board.
GrimmJeeper said:
I am planning on running a full face helmet, hopefully with an air system, and a foam neckroll.
Click to expand...
Get your helmet with the air port, even if you don't have the system. 'Doesn't cost much more, and you wont have to replace the helmet when(not if) you upgrade to pressurized air.
 
Oops! I lied. BITD doesn't "require"neck braces. They're "recommended". Here's the 2010 rule:
SAFETY EQUIPMENT
SCR1: HELMETS
Helmets must be of approved by one of the following; Snell M2000 / SA2000 / M2005 / SA2005
DOT / ECE 22-05 / BSI sticker attached. Straps must have D-ring fasteners only. No snaps or
velcro will be permitted. The interior and exterior areas of the helmet must be free of defects (i.e.,
the padding must be in good condition and the exterior of the helmet must not be damaged). Best
In The Desert Racing Association strongly recommends that entrants use helmets specifically
designed for racing.

SCR2: PROTECTIVE CLOTHING
One-piece firesuits are mandatory. Two-piece suits are not permitted. The suits must cover from
the neck to the ankles and to the wrists. The suits must not have any holes, rips, and tears or be
worn thin. The suits must also be free from any petroleum-based contaminants. All suits must be
made from fire-resistant material with the manufacturer’s fire resistant rating label attached. A
minimum of a two-layer firesuit, fire resistant gloves and footwear are very highly recommended.
Best In The Desert Racing Association highly recommends that each fire suit be labeled on the
upper right chest with the entrant’s full name, blood type, allergies or other important medical
information.

SCR3: EYE PROTECTION
Shatter resistant eye protection is required for all entrants competing in a Best In The Desert
Racing Association event. Entrants whose vehicles have full windshields must have eye
protection in the vehicle with them at all times. It is highly recommended that entrants wear the
eye protection even with the windshield. It is highly recommended that entrants with removable
dentures remove them prior to competing.

SCR4: NECK BRACES
Neck braces are highly recommended for all car and truck entrants. Neck braces should provide
adequate support and have a fire-resistant covering in good or like new condition. It is highly
recommended that a neck brace made by a recognized manufacturer be worn.
Click to expand...
 
h-townxj said:
Here's a link to the leatt moto-r not much on the web about it yet. But the leatt for motocross I have to say definatly works. Only time will tell
on this model.
http://www.leatt-brace.com/index.php?page_id=16&id=3
Click to expand...

my buddy wrecked bad in 05 on his KTM during a race, and spent almost a year in a wheel chair because of a neck injury. he got back on the bike and is racing again and someone cut him off in a turn and he got in almost an identical wreck, it looks like two different angles of the same wreck looking at the video cam footage, but this time wearing the leatt unit. he stood up and walked to the sidelines this time. Deinately a good piece to have. Thanks for the link.
 
Ya I work at crmc in Fresno it's basically the only true trauma center in the valley and the things I ve seein in there from car cashes ect make your realize how it's worth it to spend that extra couple hundred bucks to lower your chances of injury. It's basically
a big wake up call. But anyways let's get back to some tech what kind of fire supression systems are available besides the usually fire extinguisher
 
I have another question as well.
What is the best way to go for roll cage padding? I've seen everything from pipe insulation to cut up pool noodles... I know there is a specific roll cage padding that you can buy, but what is the difference and is there a specific thickness you are required to use for racing (if required at all :dunno:)
 
crazyjim said:
Roll cage padding is a denser material, which may seem like a bad idea but when your helmet hits it at 40mph, you want a dense foam. Pool noodles and pipe insulation are both too soft, they aren't going to do SHIT in a real wreck. Spend the extra on the real stuff
Click to expand...

This was my assumption as well I would never use the pipe wrap, i've been able to push with my thumb on the pipe insulation over a roll cage and feel the tube underneath... and frankly it scared the crap out of me. Just wanted some confirmation that the good stuff was indeed a better material.

Is roll cage padding required by the rulebooks?
 
h-townxj said:
what kind of fire supression systems are available besides the usual fire extinguisher
Click to expand...
Besides the "usual" hand held dry chemical extinguisher, there are mounted dry chemical, CO2, and foam systems. The various systems all have a bottle mounted with a manual release. Pull the handle, and it emptied the bottle into where ever the nozzle is placed - usually into the engine compartment. The foam and dry systems make a mess. The CO systems are "clean" but dangerous because they displace all the air (read"oxygen")from around the fire, and if you have holes in the firewall, maybe from inside the passenger compartment as well.
The down side of a mounted system is it can only work where it's mounted. A hand-held can be pointed straight at any fire you have.
The up side of course is if you have a fire under the hood, the last thing you want to do is open the hood. Also, with the mounted system, you don't have to wait until you stop and get out to start fighting an engine fire.

If I was going to mount one in a car, I'd stick with a dry chemical bottle feed into the engine compartment, 2 nozzles, one on each side of the engine, above the manifold.

A primer on various chemicals from the ever popular(and sometimes wildly inaccurate) wikipedia:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_extinguisher
 
On the fire extiguisher note I think its worth it to add this to the thread, Make sure your extinguisher is rated for chemical/oil/electrical fires for automotive use. A good practice is to carry ABC rated extinguishers, using the wrong type of extinguisher on a fire can cause it to spread and spatter everywhere similar to throwing water on a grease fire in the kitchen - especially when dealing with oil related engine fires.
 
Ya I've learned how important it is to have one especially in the garage or where you do your fabbing. And always remove anything flammable from behind where you welding. I caught the jeep on fire when I was welding the inner fender seams and didn't for some
reason think about the frewall matting on the other side. But quick shot with the extiguisher and all was saved minus a few wires but that better than the car or house being gone.
 
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