I'm hearing goods and bads about it.
Mostly I'm hearing the change isn't enough of an upgrade to make the job worth the work.
Have you had one? What was your experience?
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WJ Conversion
- Thread starter ArBrnSnpr
- Start date
I'm hearing goods and bads about it.
Mostly I'm hearing the change isn't enough of an upgrade to make the job worth the work.
Have you had one? What was your experience?
Vanimal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- escondido, ca
I've done 4 of them as of last weekend and i see no reason not to do it if your current gearbox has to be removed for any reason. Not sure if i'd replace a perfectly good box though.
I could steer my old xj with my pinky even in the rocks with tons and 37's and no assist. I did have a WJ pump as well though.
I have some clunking in my steering when turning back and forth - I attribute it to worn factory components though.
I have no leaks or other reason to believe my XJ needs to be replaced.
I just figured if I could pick one up at pick-n-pull during a 50% sale, It might be worth it.
I have no leaks or other reason to believe my XJ needs to be replaced.
I just figured if I could pick one up at pick-n-pull during a 50% sale, It might be worth it.
- Location
- Salem, OR
I've got s FSJ/YJ 4bolt steering box in mine. I was gonna do the Durango but the shortened steering throw I don't like.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Still held up waiting for the ball joint press to become available from Autozone.
I'm considering buying one.
All the research I've done is suggesting to go with the OTC press which is right under $200 with the Jeep/Dodge adapter.
Money I'd rather not spend on a tool that I'd use so infrequently...
I'm considering buying one.
All the research I've done is suggesting to go with the OTC press which is right under $200 with the Jeep/Dodge adapter.
Money I'd rather not spend on a tool that I'd use so infrequently...
- Location
- Salem, OR
Do you check O'reillys? They have a tool loan also
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Green XJ Jeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Spanaway Wa
dan1977p
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Virginia Beach, VA
You can use a c clamp if you have one big enough and the right sized sockets. Or check any of the other autoparts stores.
I don't know what it's like where you are, but here, I can drive 10 miles and hit AutoZone, Advanced, NAPA, Carquest and O'Reilly's.
I don't know what it's like where you are, but here, I can drive 10 miles and hit AutoZone, Advanced, NAPA, Carquest and O'Reilly's.
Thanks man!
O'reilly's had one so I'm back in business.
Almost all the old components are off.
I'm fighting with the pitman arm at the moment. I'm about one beer from doing a relief cut and moving on.
- Location
- Salem, OR
lol I've been there lol
Have you been hitting it with a hammer as well as tightening the press? I wouldn't wail on it as it's your sector shaft but some sharp hits can help vibrate the rust loose.
If you have a air chisel/hammer. Can do the same going around the pitman arm
I tired doing 1/2 turns on the puller while applying PB blaster and tapping the edges of the arm the entire time I was stripping down the axle. Nothing.
I put a C clamp laterally on the puller because the arms were starting to bend apart. That held the arms together, then the rest of the puller started to bend.
After the puller broke, I ended up spending 10 minutes with a cut off wheel and air chisel and was done with it.
Ball joints were about 2 years old and came out easy. Upper control control arm bushings were a bit more of an issue and took some coaxing to get out, but they're out.
New bushings are in the freezer and will go in in the morning.
Once those are set, I'll put the axle back in and get the knuckles mounted so I can get the measurements for the tie rod and drag link.
Then I'll get the mounts burned in and everything mounted back up and I'll be ready to go.
I put a C clamp laterally on the puller because the arms were starting to bend apart. That held the arms together, then the rest of the puller started to bend.
After the puller broke, I ended up spending 10 minutes with a cut off wheel and air chisel and was done with it.
Ball joints were about 2 years old and came out easy. Upper control control arm bushings were a bit more of an issue and took some coaxing to get out, but they're out.
New bushings are in the freezer and will go in in the morning.
Once those are set, I'll put the axle back in and get the knuckles mounted so I can get the measurements for the tie rod and drag link.
Then I'll get the mounts burned in and everything mounted back up and I'll be ready to go.
Last edited:
So here's some pictures from the job so far
All stripped down
Stinkyfab racing sway bar drop brackets and JKS bar pin delete kit
VHT coated and installed
Setting up the JKS mini skids
Burned in (welds should hold, however they won't be winning any beauty contests).
IRO upper control arm bushings pressed in
Ball joints pressed in
Figuring out where to put the Axle side track bar bracket
Doing some mock up and measuring
I installed new seals in the D30. Checked the pattern on the gears for the first time since the locker/gear install, everything looks fine.
I set the axle 1" forward of where it was. I had the factory bumper until recently and set the long arms to avoid rubbing. With the new bumper, I'm hoping I can get away with the extra inch. I stretched the rear 1" through the extra pin holes also.
My track bar is about 4" too long so it's going to have to be modified or replaced.
Once I get the track bar situated, I'll install the Stinkyfab axle side sway bar brackets. Then I have a set of JKS disconnects to install.
Just need to get my drag link measured, cut and welded and hopefully everything will come together.
I have a Durango master cylinder to install before I bleed the brakes then hopefully she'll be back on the road.
All stripped down
Stinkyfab racing sway bar drop brackets and JKS bar pin delete kit
VHT coated and installed
Setting up the JKS mini skids
Burned in (welds should hold, however they won't be winning any beauty contests).
IRO upper control arm bushings pressed in
Ball joints pressed in
Figuring out where to put the Axle side track bar bracket
Doing some mock up and measuring
I installed new seals in the D30. Checked the pattern on the gears for the first time since the locker/gear install, everything looks fine.
I set the axle 1" forward of where it was. I had the factory bumper until recently and set the long arms to avoid rubbing. With the new bumper, I'm hoping I can get away with the extra inch. I stretched the rear 1" through the extra pin holes also.
My track bar is about 4" too long so it's going to have to be modified or replaced.
Once I get the track bar situated, I'll install the Stinkyfab axle side sway bar brackets. Then I have a set of JKS disconnects to install.
Just need to get my drag link measured, cut and welded and hopefully everything will come together.
I have a Durango master cylinder to install before I bleed the brakes then hopefully she'll be back on the road.
Last edited:
Ordered this heim kit from Ruffstuff to make a new track bar. I'll pick up some DOM locally and put something together.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/34TREKIT-REPLACE.html
I'll shorten my RE bar to use in the mean time.
Hopefully it doesn't require any bends because I don't have a bender. I see lots of people running straight track bars with OTA set ups though so here's to hoping!
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/34TREKIT-REPLACE.html
I'll shorten my RE bar to use in the mean time.
Hopefully it doesn't require any bends because I don't have a bender. I see lots of people running straight track bars with OTA set ups though so here's to hoping!
OK - looking like the U-joints are in need of changing and they easy to get at right now.
My research is showing that the 5-760x is the best factory u-joint. Anyone suggest otherwise?
My XJ came form the factory with ABS so I believe it came with 297 u-joints.
I'm researching but hoping someone can give me an experienced answer!
My research is showing that the 5-760x is the best factory u-joint. Anyone suggest otherwise?
My XJ came form the factory with ABS so I believe it came with 297 u-joints.
I'm researching but hoping someone can give me an experienced answer!
Sacrificed the RE track bar.
I ended up using a cut off wheel to take the threaded end out and cut the bushing sleeve out. The outer diameter of the threaded insert ended up being 1", which is what the ID of the DOM I'm using. Thankfully I had enough DOM left to fab up a track bar.
I'm going to redo it when my ends come in from Ruffstuff because with my RE frame side track bar bracket, my track bar is currently 28.5" and my drag link is 33.5".
It should be OK to run while I wait on the mail, but I'd really like to get them closer in length.
On the bright side, I got the angles within 1-2 degrees of each other between the track bar and drag link.
I just can't get the axle track bar mount any further outboard so the extra will have to come from the frame side...
I ended up using a cut off wheel to take the threaded end out and cut the bushing sleeve out. The outer diameter of the threaded insert ended up being 1", which is what the ID of the DOM I'm using. Thankfully I had enough DOM left to fab up a track bar.
I'm going to redo it when my ends come in from Ruffstuff because with my RE frame side track bar bracket, my track bar is currently 28.5" and my drag link is 33.5".
It should be OK to run while I wait on the mail, but I'd really like to get them closer in length.
On the bright side, I got the angles within 1-2 degrees of each other between the track bar and drag link.
I just can't get the axle track bar mount any further outboard so the extra will have to come from the frame side...
