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waggy 44 prep

X

xjoe

NAXJA Forum User
Location
port orchard,wa
started to prep waggy 44 for welding.
DSCF0129.jpg

what a pain to get the driverside spring hanger off, there is a lot of material in that area. Looks like the pass side will be a bunch easier. I am going to work on cutting through the welds on the inner c's later today.
 
Why are you cutting the c's off? turning the knuckles? I ran one in my Xj last year without turningthem, no problems with 6" lift and 36 tsl's. its a fun project!
 
Honestly I was going by the info on this site, namely crashs tech articles. I am going with 6.5" lift & L.A's My front driveshaft is at about 13 degrees, I thought that with a double cardon driveshaft, I needed to have the pinion angle point at the output on the transfer case. You didn't have any problems without cutting and turning the c's? oh yeah I will be running 36"IROKS
DSCF0119.jpg
 
Have fun with the knuckles. I grinded, heated, and beat the living sh!t out of them before I could get them to budge. I know alot of people say its a 4 hour job, but not in my case. I set my castor to 7 degrees, and with crossover steering, the Jeep drives great. If you're using the RE bracket kit you're going to have to do a little "massaging" to get them to fit properly on the waggy axle. On the driverside I cut the one side off of the spring perch and moved it in under the spring perch about an inch and a half so that I wouldn't have to have it welded to the cast. The bridge was then welded to the spring perch. You will have to grind a little off of the driver side lower control arm mount as well. HTH.

MIke
 
I would install the bridge first, then hog out the one side of the coil bucket mount on the driver's side so that it fits snug up against the bridge, right over the weld you laid down to hold the bridge in place. Stitch the coil bucket and the bridge together with a straight weld right there. That's the way I did mine, less cutting on the bridge, and the bridge is attached solidly to the axle tube instead of indirectly by way of the coil bucket. Either way works, I think it's easier to do it the way I did. You'll understand once you start putting things together. Either way you do it, the coil buckets will be outboard a little bit on each side from where they are on the D30, but it's no big deal, not enough to cause any problems.
 
xjoe said:
got any pics?
Click to expand...

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14578

Scroll down to the post by "shizza-my-nizza". Those are the only pics I have online right now. They're a little dark so I don't know if they'll help you or not, but you might get the general idea. I understand that its not the ideal way of doing it, but at the time I wasn't too keen on welding to the cast. Its held up fine for 2 years now if that means anything.

It might just be me, but I HATED driving my jeep without having the knuckles turned. If you want any sort of pinion angle you have to turn them. It seems like just about the time you're ready to give up, they'll budge. Once they break loose they'll turn fine. HTH

MIke
 
Well i got everything else off the axle, truss sits on the axle and bolts down. So now I'm off to get more cutting disc's. I did a few measurements and if I put the pinion angle at twelve degrees(angle of my front drive line) I would be a 0 degrees castor. It is not my daily driver, but I do want it to drive properly. So I am going to get er done.
 
well i'm ready to start welding. I cut and turnded the c's. I have them set so that the pinion is at 12 degrees & c's are at 6 degrees. getting those c's off is no joke!
 
what is your pinion angle and castor set at? Mine is 12 degrees pinion 6 castor. I dont drive mine in 4 hi either. I am retaining coils, so is my angle off?
 
xjoe said:
what is your pinion angle and castor set at? Mine is 12 degrees pinion 6 castor. I dont drive mine in 4 hi either. I am retaining coils, so is my angle off?
Click to expand...
My caster is at 6 degrees, my pinion points about 4 degrees above straight, and I rotated the knuckles 16 degrees from stock, I have about 7" of lift.
 
Ok so I looked at and measured my junk. My hp 30 pinion is at 12 degrees, the same as my driveshaft, which points directly at my transfer case output. I read a few articles that say with a d.cardon driveshaft the pinion should point at the t.c output. Set like that the castor is about 3 degrees.

I put the waggy on stands pointed the pinion to 12 degrees then adjusted the caster on the c's to 6 degrees. Then I will mount the truss, spring buckets& control arm mounts level. Does that sound about right or am I missing something?
 
an on topic question:
how do you align the c's perfectly once you have cut them free? how much of a tolerance slop is "ok" ?

and I assume that castor of 0* is straight up and down, is 7* 7* forward or 7* back?

what is ideal castor?

I have an angle finder and a protractor, but worry about re-aligning my c's if i cut them off...
cut the wedges off the hp44 today
tomorrow is pull the d30 off day
 
XJ_ranger said:
an on topic question:
how do you align the c's perfectly once you have cut them free? how much of a tolerance slop is "ok" ?

and I assume that castor of 0* is straight up and down, is 7* 7* forward or 7* back?

what is ideal castor?

I have an angle finder and a protractor, but worry about re-aligning my c's if i cut them off...
cut the wedges off the hp44 today
tomorrow is pull the d30 off day
Click to expand...
Well I am by no means an expert as this is my first one. I was a little hesitant to cut mine off too. It took me a couple of times to get them both the same, I had to clamp the axle to the stands (in my case I oriented the pinion to 12* same as my stock angle)then put the c on w/6*positive castor-towards the rear of the vehicle,negative would be the opposite) Again, It took me a couple of tries, I got it started on a little ways and rechecked the angle to make sure it stayed the same. In my experience once I get the knuckle started at the right angle it stayed correct as I pounded it on.(B.T.W the c's are a very tight fit, they will be difficut to remove,you will need a B.F.H) Of course the other side is the same. all of the searching I did I camr up with 6-8* caster is what you want for proper handling.
 
XJ_ranger said:
an on topic question:
how do you align the c's perfectly once you have cut them free? how much of a tolerance slop is "ok" ?

and I assume that castor of 0* is straight up and down, is 7* 7* forward or 7* back?

what is ideal castor?

I have an angle finder and a protractor, but worry about re-aligning my c's if i cut them off...
cut the wedges off the hp44 today
tomorrow is pull the d30 off day
Click to expand...
6* seems to be what everyone likes on a D44 and 35-37" tires.

I don't think having the castor the same left to right is that big of a deal. I have heard of instances of it being off up to 2 degrees from the factory (unintentionally) and have also heard of them being purposefully off to help a vehicle track straight on a road with a crown.
 
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