-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
ARB air lines
- Thread starter The Box
- Start date
99xj4x4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bakersfield/ Chico
Run them up with your vent lines, that should be out of the way of everything in the front.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
My front runs down under the master cylinder, along the drivers upper control arm, and over to the diff.
My rear runs down under the master, along the hard brake line to the rear, and is zip tied to the rear soft line going down to the axle, and over.
My rear runs down under the master, along the hard brake line to the rear, and is zip tied to the rear soft line going down to the axle, and over.
silverslk
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Garbage Grove, CA
Best thing I have heard was my buddy saying to run hard lines as far as possible and ditch the solenoids and get trucker manual "air switches" then you don't have to worry about a blown fuse, wiring to and from switches or damaged lines leaving you open.
He says run a CO2 bottle to manual air switches to the ARB's so there is less items to fail and leave you stranded.
He says run a CO2 bottle to manual air switches to the ARB's so there is less items to fail and leave you stranded.
Last edited by a moderator:
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
until you develop a small leak, lose your co2 and get stranded.
the arb switches kind of suck. I got rid of those, and installed generic autozone toggle switches - i've not had a problem with any of my arb stuff.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
I forgot to mention that the hoses I have are the steel braided lines. And I am running long arms.
So im thinking I should zip tie them with the rear soft brake line and hard lines up into the engine bay, then up along the control arm back to the crossmember then up to the engine bay.
Thanks guys
So im thinking I should zip tie them with the rear soft brake line and hard lines up into the engine bay, then up along the control arm back to the crossmember then up to the engine bay.
Thanks guys
you will probably need a 12 foot for the front if you have to go all the way to the crossmember back to the engine bay depending on the location of your compressor. my compressor is where my airbox used to be (behind the headlight) and the 6 foot is just long enough with shortarms.
i have had no problems with the arb switches and solenoids.
live24wheel
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix
My compressor is mounted right in front of the master cylinder. I ran the front line right down the firewall to the frame side of the RK upper long arm, down the long arm and right to the top of the pumpkin. The rear runs the same and follows right along the hard lines to the E-brake cable. Zip-tied to the E-brake cable to the top of the pumpkin with a bit of slack there for movement. Running along the hard lines for the rear was nice because the clips for those hard lines had a couple extra slots so I just snapped the ARB hose into them.
For the front, I'm almost sure I didn't use more than 6 feet. Don't quote me on that though.
For the front, I'm almost sure I didn't use more than 6 feet. Don't quote me on that though.
- Location
- Thornton, CO
Snap some pics of the lines? Did you get the kit from RRO?
fyrfytr1717
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Turlock, CA
The SS lines are nice as they are a little more durable and heat resistant, but on the flip side... if you ever do have a problem with them, you can't repair them on the trail like you can with the plastic lines.