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So frickin' true! At Pig Gig a couple years ago, Travis brought a crowd with his .454 revolver. I was shooting somewhere near when I felt the concussion and knew I had to shoot it.
 
I haven't fired a .50 or anything near it yet. Biggest was the .44mag Redhawk I spent most of a day firing at the range. I was more accurate with it than the Sig we had, for some reason, it seemed to fit my hand better.
 
So frickin' true! At Pig Gig a couple years ago, Travis brought a crowd with his .454 revolver. I was shooting somewhere near when I felt the concussion and knew I had to shoot it.

It was a .460, still a big frickin' round but was surprisingly controllable. Even Susie shot it!
 
Its gone im drunk

2012-02-25_00-35-51_724.jpg


K "I like guns too! And Jager" man
 
It was a .460, still a big frickin' round but was surprisingly controllable. Even Susie shot it!


... if I had 15k burning a hole in my pocket...
 
I handle a large caliber snub nose daily....

Cheese "if ya cant hit the bottom, beat the shit out of the sides" Man
 
If there is another Pig Gig I've got a few hand cannons to shoot. A few bolt action hand guns in 7wsm and a wildcat 338wsm. The 338 pushes a 250grain bullet at 2750fps :) if those aren't enough the 500S&W encore with 500 grain cast bullets is always interesting.
 
grr....i have decided that i hate carburetors.

i have one problem after another trying to get the j10 running...first it was sucking the bowl dry. then it was overflowing the carb and spraying gas out of the top of the carb. now it will only stay running with the choke closed if you run the throttle by hand. so i think (and i really have no idea because this is the first carb i've worked on) that the high idle is not set right and the mixture is not quite right....i just want this damn thing to run so i can get it out of the shop

Stop messing with it. Every time I have messed with a carb for hours "Not wanting to take it apart", I always end up doing so in the long run... so get on with it already :D

Buy a rebuild kit, they generally come with a blown up carb layout. Get a set of welding tip cleaners. Pull it off. Get some newspaper, set it on the kitchen table where you can see everything. dissemble it and note where everything goes. Watch out for check balls - note size and location for re-installation. Remove the main jets and clean the passages by squirting carb cleaner though them. Take the tip cleaners and make sure the main jets are not clogged. Same with the idle jets.

Set the float per spec in the rebuild kit.
Set the accelerator pump per spec in the rebuild kit.
Set the choke per spec in the rebuild kit.
If no spec available on the idle air screws, set to 1.5 turns off stop as a starting point.

Clogged idle jets will cause you to need more throttle to keep it running because you are using the main jets.

Clogged mains will cause starvation off throttle.

Poor accelerator pump action will cause stumble on acceleration (need more volume pumped).

Carb data can be obtained in any old Motors manual. I have even found good info on the web by punching in the carb type (Make/Model)
For Example: http://www.carburetorfactory.com/expvw03.html
 
If there is another Pig Gig I've got a few hand cannons to shoot. A few bolt action hand guns in 7wsm and a wildcat 338wsm. The 338 pushes a 250grain bullet at 2750fps :) if those aren't enough the 500S&W encore with 500 grain cast bullets is always interesting.

Oh there will be another pig gig! I want to shoot that 500!
 
Stop messing with it. Every time I have messed with a carb for hours "Not wanting to take it apart", I always end up doing so in the long run... so get on with it already :D

Buy a rebuild kit, they generally come with a blown up carb layout. Get a set of welding tip cleaners. Pull it off. Get some newspaper, set it on the kitchen table where you can see everything. dissemble it and note where everything goes. Watch out for check balls - note size and location for re-installation. Remove the main jets and clean the passages by squirting carb cleaner though them. Take the tip cleaners and make sure the main jets are not clogged. Same with the idle jets.

Set the float per spec in the rebuild kit.
Set the accelerator pump per spec in the rebuild kit.
Set the choke per spec in the rebuild kit.
If no spec available on the idle air screws, set to 1.5 turns off stop as a starting point.

Clogged idle jets will cause you to need more throttle to keep it running because you are using the main jets.

Clogged mains will cause starvation off throttle.

Poor accelerator pump action will cause stumble on acceleration (need more volume pumped).

Carb data can be obtained in any old Motors manual. I have even found good info on the web by punching in the carb type (Make/Model)
For Example: http://www.carburetorfactory.com/expvw03.html


Or skip all that and get some fuel injection! :D
 
Stop messing with it. Every time I have messed with a carb for hours "Not wanting to take it apart", I always end up doing so in the long run... so get on with it already :D

Buy a rebuild kit, they generally come with a blown up carb layout. Get a set of welding tip cleaners. Pull it off. Get some newspaper, set it on the kitchen table where you can see everything. dissemble it and note where everything goes. Watch out for check balls - note size and location for re-installation. Remove the main jets and clean the passages by squirting carb cleaner though them. Take the tip cleaners and make sure the main jets are not clogged. Same with the idle jets.

Set the float per spec in the rebuild kit.
Set the accelerator pump per spec in the rebuild kit.
Set the choke per spec in the rebuild kit.
If no spec available on the idle air screws, set to 1.5 turns off stop as a starting point.

Clogged idle jets will cause you to need more throttle to keep it running because you are using the main jets.

Clogged mains will cause starvation off throttle.

Poor accelerator pump action will cause stumble on acceleration (need more volume pumped).

Carb data can be obtained in any old Motors manual. I have even found good info on the web by punching in the carb type (Make/Model)
For Example: http://www.carburetorfactory.com/expvw03.html

i already rebuilt it...there are 3 different idle set screws and the 2 mixture screws and i think all of them were out of whack. it needs throttle because the curb idle and choke fast idle are not set right at all. i also think the choke thermostat needs to be adjusted...there is a lot of info on the carb online, but it doesn't make it any less of a pain in the ass! its all good, i took a day off so i read a little and we'll see if it goes better today...
 
Carbs are black magic

Stuff an EFI setup on it, should be doable with junkyard parts I think. It isn't like they put the 360 and its variants in trucks for 30 years or anything...
 
Carbs are black magic

Stuff an EFI setup on it, should be doable with junkyard parts I think. It isn't like they put the 360 and its variants in trucks for 30 years or anything...


I think he said he had the 258... really though no difference in available.



If he has the 360, there is a super excellent write on IFSJA, by Ristow about rebuilding the Ford 2100/2150 carbs.... great instructions and massive super pictures.
 
well i got it to run and even idle now...carbs are black magic. it will only idle for about a minute but i think it is just a little too lean so it starves itself eventually. ran out of time today so back at it on monday. should have throttle linkage on and be able to drive it out of the shop finally! picked up a manual choke...from what i can tell the electronic choke runs off of pure voodoo so i want something that is predictable...
 
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